Election Time in Noyemberyan

Election Time in Noyemberyan

As so often happens here on my Armenia adventure, I sat down to write about my latest adventure when I was pulled in to another adventure and my story takes a totally different direction.  It is election season here in Armenia. There are posters everywhere.  Literature has even been dropped off at my apartment.  The Peace Corps is of course warning us to stay away from rallies and to not get involved in any type of political meetings.  I would like to follow their directions but there are two major problems.  First and foremost, the Peace Corps has assigned me to a very politically involved non-governmental organization. Secondly, I have been a political animal since I handed out literature as ten-year-old.  Telling me to avoid a rally is like putting a T-bone steak on a plate, setting that steak on the ground and telling your dog to stay away. I go to a rally like a moth to light, blindly moving forward to be close without certainty about the outcome but a desire to feel its energy.

A few days ago, I went to my little park in the center of town to do my morning exercises which already a cause of concern for the people waiting for the busses by the park. In the middle of the park, bundled up, wearing gloves and trying to do a TRX workout, I began to hear the police driving around the park using the megaphones in their cars and announcing something. My first fear was that they were telling me to get out of the park, but the cars never stopped so I continued with my workout. I kind of thought to myself, self, how do you say bail money in Armenian.

I walked home as the police cars kept circling the little town square area making the announcements whatever they were.  I got ready and headed for work because I was hoping someone would explain to me what was being said.  As I came up the stairs, I was passed by a policeman or soldier in camouflage who smiled, said hello and then climbed the ladder by our door to the roof of the building. That was a new greeting, I walked in our office and before I could get my computer out of my bag, Hasmik told me we needed to be ready for a visit with Pashinyan.  He was coming to speak on his and the member of his political party candidates’ behalf.

Then, as happens here I have come to understand and expect, everything changed with a phone call.  A candidate was coming to speak the women of our NGO and Hasmik wanted me to be a part of it.  She told one of the younger ladies to go to the bakery for treats while the other two made coffee.  The candidate arrived and Hasmik, Ani, and I settled in to the conference room with him and his escort.   His escort, which in American politics I would call a handler, distributed campaign flyers while introductions were made.  I was introduced as the American Peace Corps volunteer that I am.  At my age and disposition, it feels very awkward to be made to feel like a trophy bride with no more value than a room decoration.  (I guess people do collect abstract art that no one understands.)

The candidate spoke English and asked if he should speak in English.  I said that he should speak in Armenian that I would follow as I could.  What I did not say but I understand because of my background is very simple.  He was visiting my team of influential women to get their support for his pending election.  He needed to address them and not me.  The comfort level of everyone else in the room would elevate if a conversation of significance was done in their native language.  I understood that he was talking about improving the schools and the economy of Tavush.  I could not understand the details but could comprehend the seriousness form vocal inflection and body language. (I am trained in that and find the language barrier does not preclude my sensing most of this accurately.)

The one tension that I felt was that he was visiting us as we were preparing to go across the street to listen to Pashinyan.  Now, as a politician, I would have scheduled that meeting with a preface that we all need to get up and listen to Pashinyan.   There was a noticeable discomfort as the time for Pashinyan’s arrival was getting closer.  I could not understand if he was from Pashinyan’s party.  I do know my team supports Pashinyan and wanted to go to the rally in the park across the street.  There was an unease about when the politician would stop talking so we could leave.  I do not know if he was asked to stop or he just stopped but the conversation ended with handshakes and smiles.

Hasmik hurried us all to get our coats and instructed me to get my camera.  I hurried so much I forgot my better lens which I regretted so much because I could not get an unobstructed picture of Pashinyan.  We hurried across the street and, being with Hasmik, the boundary rope was lifted, and we were allowed in to the closer area.  Pashinyan arrived a few minutes after us and was rushed towards the stage.

I smiled at Anushik and let her know I did not want to have the speech translated.  Narine, my tutor and translator was being distracted by multiple phone calls. She disappeared back to the office before Pashinyan had even begun I believe.  I liked being in the crowd and feeling the excitement of political speeches.  There were banners and a big screen, Pashinyan was there to get support for his coalition so that they could control the Armenian Parliament and make some significant changes towards better governance.  I understand Armenian a little better now and knew he spoke of improving the roads and economy of the Tavush area.  He also spoke of the conflict with Azerbaijan. I found out later he spoke specifically about an Armenian currently being held prisoner for whom the Aziri’s want to do a prisoner exchange.  There are some hardened Aziri criminals for whom they wish to trade this one Armenian who accidentally crossed the border.  He used the word for peace several times.  I have grown to love this country so much, especially because of the people here who have so wonderfully impacted my life that I so want them to have the peace for which they wish and pray.

The rally ended with much fanfare, with candidate introductions.  Pashinyan stood in the middle of them, raising hands, the universal sign of this is my team for me and vote for them so we can affect the changes in our which you the people desire. Applause roared. Banners began appearing and workers began handing out flyers in the crowds.

When we retreated across the street to our office, we had lunch and the conversation in Armenian was all about the various candidates.  I know part of the debate was over whether to support the candidate who had spoken to them before the rally.  Conversation drifted towards one candidate whom I will not name but I jokingly call him one of my co-worker’s boyfriends.  He is actually quite the opposite, understanding enough Armenian to know she makes jokes about him and his lack of intellectual prowess. The team believed he would be defeated in the coming elections.

The next few days, there were banners, wall posters, etc. popping up all over town.  It looked like any American election except for yard signs.  I do not know if there were television or radio advertisements as I never watch television or listen to local radio here.  What I did like was that the advertisements and campaigning were limited to one month.  In America, we are inundated with campaigning for months, even years. This was like a mental vacation.

A few days after the initial meeting with the candidate to represent Tavush, I was supposed to go to my tutor’s house after my two afternoon English clubs. She sent me a text telling me to come to the office instead because the candidate was going to be there to talk with the team again.  I went up to the office around 7:00 that evening. Everyone is usually gone by 6:00 but the whole team was there with pastries and fruit on the table and prepared to make coffee as soon as the candidate arrived.

When he arrived, he was accompanied by his high school age son instead of the other handler.  Coffee was made and the conversation and questions began immediately.  I was impressed by the son’s affect of watching his father speak as though his words were the most important thing he had heard that day.  The other handler had been respectful but checked his phone and did things many handlers do that I think are mistakes.  When representing someone, the phone and laptop should be asleep, and the candidate and potential voters given undivided attention.  The candidate’s son had on a pair of Dr. Dre Beats around his neck and could easily have hidden in our conference room and listened to music.  Instead he sat by his father supportively listening to every word and constantly looking at whomever was speaking. Whether genuine or not, it was a smart political move. I believe it was real.

The conversation went again towards education and his desire to create some vocational programs.  I understood enough to get very frustrated, not with the candidate or my co-workers but with myself.  This is an area of expertise for me having been a vocational teacher, an advocate to Congress for Vocational education funding, and so and so forth.  Here was a man wanting to begin something for which I could be a masterful assistant, but I have the language of a two-year-old and could not enter the conversation.  I feigned exhaustion and asked to be excused drawing laughter when I said I can’t vote in Armenian.  I went home so very unhappy doubting why I am here if I cannot find a way to help with something as easy as that would be for me to do in America.

The next day, I arrived at work early because I knew that my team had probably left very late.  I arrived to a kitchen covered with dishes and cups that needed to be washed.  The former American restaurateur in me was glad to roll up my sleeves and clean the kitchen for my team.  It is also a time that allows me to think.  The first of my team arrived when I was about halfway through cleaning the kitchen. She immediately tried to take the work away from me and had a most surprised look when I refused to surrender my dishwater.  She finally smiled and retired to her desk.

When my counterpart Narine arrived, I told her I had cleaned the kitchen because I had some questions for her regarding the elections.  She told me that they had met with the candidate until almost midnight.  She said that I was correct about his hopes for education and told me more of what he spoken.  His education stances would have received my endorsement in America.  I was very proud to hear that my team had decided to support him and even spent some time distributing his literature.

I saw different gatherings of candidates and their supporters over the next few days.  Our office is across from the little Central Park where the candidates held rallies and launched parades of supporters.  I watched one rally and felt a little sorry for a candidate using a bullhorn to speak to a group of about twenty people.  He finished his remarks with a chant and tried to rally the group to join.  I do not what he was chanting but he said it with vigor however only about three people joined him in what he was saying.

The next Sunday was the first beautiful day in a while.  As is my habit on pretty days, I wandered down to the little park with my guitar and was sitting quietly playing and singing to the stray dogs who sometimes bark at my playing (I tell them no one likes a critic).  I saw a group of young people gathering at the little cafe near me in the park.  I figure that they were doing as I did in America and used the cafe as a rally point to see how people were doing and send them out with more literature.  I looked down at my phone to retune my guitar.  I looked up and there were about twenty young people surrounding my little bench.  One young woman asked me to play them a song. I told her I did not know any Armenian songs but only played American blues.  She said they understood, and would I please sing something.  Embarrassedly. I played and sang a part of an old Guy Clark song, “Stuff That Works”.  They applauded, said thank you and wandered off to do their political work.  I saw their candidate (I recognized him from his picture but don’t know who he was) over by the cafe.  He smiled at me and waved. It was a nice feeling that I perhaps took some of his workers minds off tedious political work for a few moments and then sent them off to work with new energy.  We, as I mentioned earlier, were to not be involved in or supposed to be around any political groups.  I still feel I was honoring the Peace Corps directive about involvement, but rallies seem to find me.

The next Sunday was election day.  It was a nice morning, so I wandered down to the little park yo use my TRX on the playground equipment.  I noticed the lights of the Cultural Center were illuminated and there were soldiers in front.  They were watching me with mild suspicion from across the street.  I realized that the Cultural Center was to be a polling place and they were there to ensure a proper election.  I had heard reports of improprieties in earlier Armenian elections.  I had met some poll watchers from a U.N. watch group.  My teammate Ruzan had been trained to assist in ballot counting.  It was all very exciting for a political addict like I am.

Monday morning, I went to work a little early to find my team huddled around Hasmik and her laptop.  I looked over her shoulder immediately recognizing an election result spreadsheet.  She tried to explain what she had on her screen when I told her I have seen hundreds of them, but never in the Armenian language.  She explained to me the numbers. Pashinyan and his team had gained control over Parliament.  The gentlemen that I had met with good education ideas had been elected and they were all happy about the results.  If allowed or if I can find a way through my team, I hope that I can help him achieve his education reforms.  I asked Hasmik about a woman friend of hers that I had met and had she won.  She told me that her friend had not and that she had been advised not to run at this time but had any way.

 I asked Narine if she could explain some of the process to me later when she was teaching me the language.  The poor young woman, trying to keep me focused on learning the language during political season is more difficult than trying to drive a train of mules away from a barn when they are hungry.

That evening, Narine explained several things about the Armenian electoral process.  The Republicans who had been in power and refused to work with Pashinyan on some election reforms were completely out of Parliament.  One of the reforms they had refused to accept would have allowed them to have a few seats in Parliament but their refusal to accept the reform had resulted in their being ousted completely from power.  The one gentleman that I jokingly called my other teammate’s boyfriend was ousted from his position.  Pashinyan would take all the people elected from his party and place them in positions.  For example, the education minded candidate I liked could be placed in Parliament or as the governor of Tavush.  The party and Pashinyan would make those decisions. There seemed to be a lot of happiness and hope from the election results.  I still do not fully understand these next few steps, but my wish is that Pashinyan can restore faith in government to a people who have been so jaded by the corruption of the past.  It is one thing to lead a revolution; it is another to govern.  I hope he makes wise choices and his supporters do not led greed influence them.