Armenian Independence Day

September 21, 2018 was the 27th Independence Day in Armenia.  I celebrated with people in the little town of Noyemberyan.  My dear friend, Narine, texted me in the morning to tell me the times and locations of the various celebrations.  As is true of so many things in Armenia, none of the times she texted me, which were taken from the official city post, were accurate.  I had returned home form my morning walk and was having breakfast and coffee, planning what to do with my day off.  I was going to take pictures somewhere and this gave me a great idea of what to photograph.

Now, before I start with this part of the story, I must explain how important something named Independence Day is to me.  A light year ago, I was born at three o’clock in the morning on July 5^th, just missing being born on American Independence Day.  I have heard many terrible stories about my mothers pregnancy and delivery of me but there is one good part.  My mother was an officer of the Daughter’s of the American Revolution. I know about there negative history with racial discrimination, but I will address that at another time.  She received silver spoons from the Louisiana and National chapters of the D.A.R. for having the baby born closest to a patriotic holiday that year.  I still have those two silver spoons.  I have felt an affinity for celebrating July 4^th all my life.  I have had parties (so they doubled as birthday parties) annually.  I knew the words of the Declaration of Independence before most of my friends.  In college, I took a Doctoral class on Thomas Jefferson. Independence Day is in my soul.  I wanted to experience another country’s version of Independence.

This is not the only time of Armenian Independence.  They were a sovereign country that has been conquered many times, but they have always held on to being Armenia.  In 1918, they escaped the Ottoman Turkish rule and created a republic that was short-lived because it was taken over by the Soviet Union.  In 1991, they created a new republic as the Soviet Union collapsed.  There were dark times, but they held on.  They are landlocked and struggle economically with hostile countries surrounding them on several sides.  They are juxtaposed between Turkey, Azerbaijan, Iran, and Georgia.  Only Georgia is relatively friendly despite economic competition. There was a terrible war with the Aziris and they rested a section of Armenia called Artsakh away.  There is a tentative cease fire in the war but there are shots fired across the border weekly if not daily.

In the spring of this year, there was a mild revolution, called the Velvet Revolution where some corrupt officials were invited to resign, and a new government put in place.  There is an amazing growing sense of pride in the country and this was demonstrated on September 21.  Everywhere I looked there were people wearing t-shirts with Prime Minister Pashinyan and caps saying Dukov. But to what made the day so special to me.

In America, we celebrate the Fourth of July with small parades and fireworks at baseball games. Politicians give speeches.  There are barbecues and lots of time at lakes and public parks.  I have watched fireworks over the harbors of San Diego, Chicago, New Orleans and Seattle.  The Washington D.C. Mall is always a big celebration with political undercurrents.

In Noyemberyan, I went to the Policemen’s Memorial where I understood everything was to begin. 

There was no one there.  I went to the little park in the center of town which I affectionately call my park because of how much time I spend there.  I got there and walked around for a moment when a gentleman in a black hat that I had met at the local school came to me and asked if I was going to take pictures of today’s celebrations.  I thought it was pretty obvious with the camera around my neck and a second lens on my belt.  He beckoned me to follow him with a large group of women.  I could tell they were heading back to the Memorial I had left an hour before.

I ran ahead, climbed up some steps, and took pictures of the women walking towards the Memorial.  I walked quickly ahead and

saw the Mayor and one of his deputies at the entrance to the Memorial.  I climbed up on the wall across the street and took a rather precarious position on a thin brick wall, so I could get some pictures.  The Mayor waved to me but had a funny look on his face like why is that American walking on that dangerous little perch.  I was already to hear the speeches begin as the ladies arrived.  Instead, the Mayor very solemnly gave each woman a white carnation which they walked to the Memorial and placed before the placard of whichever man they had come to honor.  The flowers that remained were placed at the base of the Memorial. No speeches only respect for the departed. 

They all gathered at the gate and then headed back for the park.

The man in the black hat told me the stage would have children dancing and singing and singing at 12:30. Everything was about an hour later than I first was told, but this was to be my day, so it did not matter. He walked me to the park entrance to point out the Cultural Center across the street.  In my broken understanding, I think he was letting me know that the Cultural Center was in charge of the day’s festivities. While we were standing there, the man who owns the hardware store below my office and next to Cultural Center came across the street and made the man in the black hat and I pose for pictures together. I think it was a hat thing as I had on my straw Stetson.  There was discussion about Facebook so I think somewhere on Facebook there are two old guys in cowboy hats by a water fountain in Noyemberyan.

I saw the Mayor for a minute at the park and we shook hands and greeted but he seemed to be very happy allowing this to be a celebration by children.  The park was a beehive of activity.  There were girls practicing their dances.  High school age children were setting up easels for a painting competition.  There were others setting up the sidewalk area for chalk drawings.  The younger children were all over the playground equipment. I climbed up on a set of what

 we call monkey bars in America to see if it would give me a better elevated shot of the stage for the performances.  The looks on some of the kids faces at the old American papik on the playground was one of shock, confusion and amusement.

I climbed back down and wandered through the crowds taking random pictures of children playing.  The gentleman in the black hat scooped up a child and let me know she was his grandson and posed. 

As the show was getting ready to begin, the adults were testing the PA system and running musical selections.  It was fun to see the little stage I had wondered about being readied for a performance.  The area around the little stage had different groups of young girls gathered in their dance groups.  I particularly enjoyed watching one group practicing to the music being played because, I assume, a little sister was invited to join hands and dance. 

The program began with a lady from the Cultural Center introducing the day.  The first group of girls danced followed by a boy and two different girl singers.  It closed with an older group of girls dancing.  I watched feeling a bit voyeuristic when I saw the older girls mouthing the words to the patriotic songs being sung. They did not sing out but you could feel their Armenian pride in the silent movement of their lips.

The program ended with older girls dancing a beautifully coordinated piece that I wish I understood more.  It was so very beautiful.

I retreated to the rest of the park and watched the children drawing in chalk on the sidewalks.  The fountain turned on and the children loved the spray of the water.  Old men maintained their steady eyes on the activities from the same park bench I see them occupy every morning.   Children were running everywhere having fun and everyone watched every child protectively.  The Armenian people did not feel like strangers in a park but a family of a thousand people enjoying and loving life.  This is love of country on Independence Day, honoring the future of your country with life.  Thank you again, Armenia.

For all the pictures and videos of dancing go to Armenia Independence Day